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Botanical’s Beauty Boosters

Is the secret to younger-looking skin right in your own backyard?  According to the December issue of Elle Magazine, many fruits and vegetables are legitimate treatments, but it’s because of that efficacy that users should know the differences between vinotheraphy ingredients like grapeseed and grapefruit extracts.

Mathilde Thomas, founder of French skin-care brand Caudalie, has a half-dozen uses for grape byproducts, including vine sap, used to lighten dark spots; vine stalks, which contain the anti-aging molecule resveratrol; grapeseeds, for their antioxidant polyphenols; and moisturizing grape water, which is extracted after grapes are pressed but before the liquid is fermented. Grapeseed oil is rich in fatty acids, another moisturizer, Thomas explains.

Botanicals are serious skin care ingredients… it’s not “marketing fluff” like some people think it is.  For example, pumpkin is a strong antioxidant and exfoliator, while cranberry’s vitamin C can help prevent bacteria from growing on the skin, which is good for people with acne-prone or combination skin.  Someone with sensitive skin would fair better with papaya enzymes, which also can clear dead skin cells, but is gentler and more hydrating.

Among the garden ingredients often used for beauty are:

Apples:   At Nutrivage, we are shocked that apples, which can be a good conditioner and toner, are only now hitting the market… at an expensive price point.  The vitamin C in apples has been shown to protect and repair skin cells without the drying effect of citrus fruits such as lemon and grapefruit.

Wheatgrass:    It may taste like your lawn, but it’s good for you — inside and out.  Wheatgrass is especially good for dry and mature skin because it is reparative and fights free radicals.

Bananas: It a gentle, inert fruit that can be used on the skin and hair for moisturizing, calming and soothing.  Mash one up and mix it with oatmeal and honey for a face mask.  A lesser known trick is to use a bit on your fingertips to tame dry, curly hair.

Turmeric: This tropical root is a key ingredient in curry powder, but, perhaps surprisingly, it also is used in Malaysia as an anti-inflammatory and a healing ingredient.  Another ingredient to mix with a mashed banana for calming and soothing skin.

Watermelon and tomatoes: Both are sources of lycopene which is a powerful antioxidant. Crush a tomato and slather on your face to instantly tighten, brighten and smooth away fine lines.

PRECAUTIONS:     Any consumers contemplating a wearable fruit salad should know there might be as much of a risk of an allergic reaction to a fruit-, vegetable- or other plant-based ingredients as there is to a chemical one.  Test any new skincare product on the inner side of the arm.  This skin is similar to the skin on the face, but it’s not usually as unpleasant and obvious if you do have a reaction.

In the future, expect more unusual ingredients as global barriers are blurred.  In Malaysia, there is a long tradition of treating beauty both topically and through diet — often doubling up on the same herbs, oils and extracts. The whole concept of foods for beauty is used more commonly in Malaysia and Asia than in the U.S., but the trend is crossing the ocean.  As consumers feel more comfortable with fruit and vegetable ingredients because they understand what they are, how they are grown and how they’re used, look for more “food based” skin care options on the market.

AHA or BHA for Acne

In my opinion, BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) works better on acne because is oil soluble.  Glycolic acid is perhaps the best-known of a group of chemical fruit acids called alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA).  It is derived from sugar cane, so it can be considered a natural product.  Citric acid from oranges and other citrus fruits and lactic acid from milk also fall under the same classification as alpha glycolic acid.

Alpha or Beta?  The difference between the acids
There is only one beta hydroxy acid: salicylic acid.  The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble.  This means that a beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore.  Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads.  Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem. In theory, AHAs penetrate the skin faster.

Glycolic acid works as an exfoliating agent because of its high acidity but easy solubility. When placed on the skin as part of an exfoliating cream or gel, glycolic acid goes under the damaged upper layers of skin and destroys the ‘glue’ which holds dead skin to the surface.  Glycolic acid sloughs the skin and removes dead cells.  By accelerating the normal rate of sloughing, it helps the regeneration of your skin by growing new cells faster.

Studies of percentages of glycolic acid usage in commercial, over-the-counter cream and lotion products found that 5% is a good average.  The reason is as you increase the acid content, the PH level goes down.  Low PH burns your skin.  To raise the PH to an acceptable level for use, you have to add calcium hydroxide, but then it defeats the primary purpose of the high content of acid.

Studies conducted to test the efficacy of Alpha versus Beta glycolic acid on normal skin are inconclusive at best.  Both acids seem to be equally effective in their exfoliating power.  However, the effect from salicylic acid (BHA) showed more sustained effectiveness and less adverse effects than AHA.  Other studies found that the PH at which glycolic acids are the most effective is below PH of 4.   But, it may give you a slight burning sensation when you apply it on your skin.  In medical offices, up to 80% glycolic acid and much lower PH levels have been used for chemical peels.  However, for the general use, I will suggest around 5% in cream and lotion and 10% in do it yourself peels.  Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.  Too long of an exposure may give you temporary redness.  For more anti-aging Products, see our Nutri Smoothing Lotion.

Michel A. Hegi, PhD.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientist

An Apple a Day

Stem cells from the Uttwiler Spätlauber apple are said to protect skin cell regeneration and so delay the onset of wrinkles. The discovery was made by Swiss scientists and the November 2009 edition of the United States Vogue magazine went as far as to call the variety “the super-apple“, and asked if the tree could be “the new fountain of youth”.

The Uttwiler Spätlauber, which was first recorded in the 18th century, comes from canton Thurgau, in northern Switzerland.  Well-known for its excellent storability, it can stay fresh looking for up to four months after being harvested, long after other varieties have become brown from from oxidation and wrinkled in texture.

A potent concentration of this PhytoCellTec[TM] Malus Domestica is now available in NutriVage A-Cell Serum to help preserve and protect your vital skin stem cells. This special apple extract complements other ingredients provided in this new topical formula.

UV Protection, Sun-tanning, and Other Misconceptions

What is a suntan?  When you’re exposed to UV light, your skin accelerates its production of melanin.  Melanin is the dark pigment in the epidermis that gives your skin its normal color.  The extra melanin is produced to protect the skin’s deeper layers and creates the darker color of a “tan.”  A suntan is actually your body’s way of blocking the UV rays to prevent sunburn and other skin damage.  But, the protection only goes so far. T he amount of melanin a person produces is determined genetically, and many people simply can’t produce enough melanin to protect the skin well. Eventually, UV light causes the skin to burn, bringing pain, redness and swelling.

Many people go to tanning salons to get a so-called “base tan” before leaving on a beach vacation.  The theory behind this is a few sessions of indoor tanning will protect your skin from sunburn in a sunny climate.  However, there’s no proof that this is true.  Tanning under the sun or a sunlamp gives protection that is equivalent to a sun protection factor (SPF) of 4 or less, which translates into a little extra time in the sun before you start to burn.  But the larger issue is that any change in skin color is a sign of damage from ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Repeated exposure to UV radiation, whether from the sun or a sunlamp, will increases your risk of premature skin aging and skin cancer.

Choose sunscreen products with UVA and UVB protection as UVB and UVA radiation both are harmful to human health.  While “sunburn” and cancer risk are mainly provoked by UVB radiation, UVA radiation is responsible for skin’s aging, impacts on the human immune system, and is an important contributor to the skin cancer risk.  The problem is that the “sun protection factor” (SPF number) only indicates protection against UVB radiation.

What sun protection factor should you choose? The sun protection factor (SPF) is a score used to describe the ‘strength’ of the product to protect against “sun–burn,” i.e. mainly UVB radiation.  It is important to know that an SPF over 50 practically does not increase the protection against sun burn and UVB radiation.

How should sunscreen products be used? It is important to know that sunscreen products have their full effect only if used in sufficient quantities.  To protect the whole body of an average-sized adult, a quantity of 35 grams of the sunscreen product needs to be applied.  This is a quantity equal to approximately six filled tea spoons.  Moreover, it is crucial to frequently reapply these products to maintain protection – in particular after swimming, bathing or toweling off.  Apply sunscreen liberally 30 minutes before going outdoors and reapply every two hours.

There is no complete sun block or total protection productss.  Sunscreen products simply cannot deliver total protection from UV radiation.  Even the high SPFs do let some of the UV radiation through.  This holds also true for products claiming to be a “sun block” or to offer “total protection.”  So called “sunblocker” products are misleading labeling and should be banned from sale.

What you should know about sunscreens: An SPF of 15-25 suffices to protect a person with normal skin from sun burn.  All sunscreen labels list a sun protection factor (SPF).  SPF is a measurement of how much protection the sunscreen offers from the UVB rays that cause sunburn.  A few sunscreen labels also list a “PA” ranking which refers to the amount of protection the sunscreen offers from the UVA rays that may cause long-term skin damage.  PA rankings are listed as PA+, PA++ or PA+++.   The more +’s, the more protection you will receive from UVA rays.

New regulations concerning labeling will require a UVB and UVA rating.  They will be imposed and regulated by the FDA.  The skin care industry will have to follow those regulation and will have their products tested for contents by an independent laboratory to insure the proper labeling.  It’s about time!

Michel A. Hegi, PhD.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientist

Misrepresentations from Skin Care Advertising

I will start by telling what’s working and what’s not.  I will also give you a listing of the ingredients you should look for and the ones which are just filler or “label dressing.”  Label dressing is known in the skin care industry as ingredients used in the product which will not harm, yet often have no proven benefits, but received extensive publicity by their manufacturers.  They add some perceived value to the products, or just make it look and sound expensive, by adding exotic names and almost always unnecessary raw materials in the final product.  These ingredients on the label and on the product advertising material will incite the unaware customer to buy it.

A good example was in the 1960’s some giant company came up with the idea to use the waste material from the logging industry (Small twigs and leaves) and extracted the chlorophyll out of it.  So, they built a big extracting plant on the U.S./Canada border and started the extraction process.  When they extracted millions of tons of chlorophyll and did some research, they found out that chlorophyll is very useful for plants to photosynthesize the sunlight, but has no other redeemable values.  However, at that time, hundred of million of dollars had been invested in the process.  So, one way or another, those expenses will have to be recovered.  They hired a marketing and media management company and pretty soon every body was chewing gum with chlorophyll, wearing shoe soles with chlorophyll, smoking cigarettes with chlorophyll, and the list goes on.  Very soon, the stock pile of chlorophyll was sold out, the extracting plant was reconverted, and the chlorophyll craze disappeared from our lives just like magic…  That’s marketing at is best!

Did you know that marketing for big cosmetic company can be as much as 80% of the final cost of the product?  What are they trying to sell you?  A famous saying in marketing is:  “Sell the sizzle, not the steak.”  The problem with this motto is that the sizzle has no nutritional value.  The cosmetic industry has a long history of using waste material from other industries to keep their own costs down.

So, what about the raw materials you should stay away from?

• Mink oil:   Mink oil is a byproduct of the mink farmers.  After they removed the pelt, the rest of the animal is wasted, but it contains a lot of fat.  In order to maximize the revenues, they must create a market for it.  Again, some good marketing magic made the cosmetic industry eager to use it… for a hefty price tag to the consumer.
• Emu oil:   Emu oil is a byproduct of the emus after farmers remove the feathers and the skin.  All the fancy animal fat can be replaced by olive oil ,in my opinion, which is by far the best emollient on the market.  Olive oil contains Squalane previously extracted from shark’s liver. Please make sure when you buy your skin care products that the Squalane comes from olive oil and not from sharks.  The fishing industry did a fantastic job promoting Squalane from sharks.  Again, the rest of the shark is primarily for Japanese and Chinese fins fish soup.
• Caviar:  Did you know that broken Sturgeons’ eggs cannot be sold as edible caviar?  So, to capitalize on this potential waste, insert some good marketing, and again, the cosmetic industry is right there to buy it up and sell it to the uneducated public.  One can argue that fish eggs contain vitamins and marine’s lipids (another fancy name for fat), but again, an algae extract and vegetable-derived vitamins and olive oil can easily replace these. “But, caviar is expensive, so it must be good on your skin,” you say??  In my opinion, caviar might have a place on toast if you like exotic, expensive, greasy, fishy, tasting stuff.  It has no useful purpose on your skin.  But, it sure makes the product sound expensive if nothing else.

To sum all this up, let me give you my opinion about a good skin care product.  It must contain:

• Peptides, olive oil or Squalane, and some plant extract.  Be careful as not all plant extracts are the same.  Do your research.
• Some vitamins B5, (Pantothenic Acid) Vitamins B3, (Niacinamide) are good.  So is Vitamin C, and don’t forget the fatty ones like Vitamin A, D, E, and F which are also contained in olive oil.

Also a good manufacturer who stands up to their product claims.  No hype… No fuss…  Quality first!

Michel A. Hegi, PhD.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientist

Which Skin Care Ingredients Should You Look For?

Caveat Emptor… “let the buyer beware.”

Few useful guidelines are:  Do not buy product which contain animal by product.  They usually are waste material from other industries!

Furs & leather industry:  Their waste is mink oil and Emus oil.

Fishing industry:  Their waste is Shark liver oil, Squalane and Caviar.  Squalane is good for your skin but it can also be extracted from Olive oil, and that’s the good Squalane that you want.

Stay away of the oil industry product too:  Petrolatum and Mineral oil.   Petrolatum is used in many ointments as the carrier, but if an alternative exists, buy it instead.  Emulsions or Gels are even better.

How to recognize a Gel or Emulsion?  They always contain water, often the first ingredient on the label.

Also beware of “label dressing.”  Some manufacturers will put an extensive list of ingredient on their labels, but there is only so much room in the formula for those ingredients.

On your Skin Care label, the first ingredient is almost always water. The water content of Cosmetics is between 40% and 90%.  Most of the large manufacturers are averaging between 70% and 80% water.  The more active ingredients are in the formula, the higher the risks of break-down the formulator may encounter. Their motto is: keep it safe.

In my opinion the best ingredients (raw material or active ingredients) to look for are:

• Peptides: often called Oligopeptides, Dipeptides, Thetrapeptides, Polypeptides, Peptides is the key word the prefix is sometime the indication of a patented structure
• Olive oil: it contains fatty vitamins such A, E, D, F. and Squalane. (but make sure is from olive oil.  Sharks’ liver oil Squalane is not good.)
• Shea Butter: a good natural emollient
• Cocoa butter: another good natural emollient
• Lanolin: And its derivatives are also excellent emollients.  Lanoline is the only acceptable exception to animal by product.  Lanolin does not destruct the animal.  Rather it is a by product of the wool industry also called wool fat by farmers who remove the lanolin by dumping the wool in hot water before selling it to the mill.  The Lanolin will rise on the top of the water to be harvested and sold to the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industrys.
• Vitamins:  Are essentials to a healthy skin.  Look for Vitamin C, also called Sodium Ascorbate, Ascorbic Acid, and other possible names.  Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, B5, Pantothenic Acid, and also the oil soluble vitamins A, D, E, and F.  If you do not see at least three of these ingredients in the product ingredient list, don’t buy it.  You may encounter dozens of definitions to describe vitamins depending on their particular mode of extraction and provenance.  If you do not know an ingredient, please look it up and research it… after all it’s your skin, the most absorptive organ in your whole body!

Michel A. Hegi, PhD.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientifst

Chemically Engineered Products Are Good!

Mother Nature engineered your skin to efficiently protect your internal organs from the other natures designed elements and their possible invasion.  This fact is why most natural ingredients do not works on your skin before being chemically manipulated by human.

Think about it this way… you drink herbal tea after infusing it in hot water.  You don’t eat freshly cut Chamomile flower or Ginseng roots.  Even after the process of drying the herbs grinding, infusing and drinking them, a very complicated chemical transformation occurs in your very own body.

First, the tea enters your stomach where it is dumped in a pool of highly corrosive hydrochloric acid which dilutes  every molecule of the ingested material.  After this process, millions of very chemically selective enzymes start working at separating and transforming every tiny part of this acidic material into nutrients small enough to pass the final filtration.  In the intestinal track, the nutrients separate and are made available to each individual part of the body before it discards the useless portion.

As humans, we are nothing more than a walking, thinking, and feeling chemical plant!

As a chemist, I try to replicate the chemical process that occurs naturally in your body, using glass and steel equipment to extract the essential molecules from natural ingredients and making them available to you by penetrating the deeper layers of your skin.  To simplify, what I am trying to illustrate is that when you rub rosehip or lemon on your skin nothing much will happen.  However, if I extract the vitamin C out of this very same lemon, and you rub vitamin C into your skin instead of just lemon, it will rehydrate your collagen. Vitamin C is not lemon anymore, but it originally was.  This is the miracle of chemistry.

Dr. Michel A. Hegi, Ph.D.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientist

Benefits of Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid as a sloughing effect on the skin; (removal of dead cells) by accelerating the normal rate of sloughing it help the regeneration of your skin by growing new cells faster.

Studies of percentages of Glycolic acid usage in commercial, over the counter cream and lotion products found that: 5% to be a good average. The reason behind this is as follow: As you increase the acid content the ph goes down. Low ph burn your skin so to raise the ph to an acceptable level you have to ad Calcium hydroxide and it defeat the purpose of the high content of acid.

Studies conducted to test the efficacy of Alpha versus Beta glycolic acid are inconclusive at best. Both acids seem to be equally effective, however the effect from Salicylic acid showed more sustained effectiveness and less adverse effect than AHA. Other studies found that the ph at which Glycolic acid is the most effective is below 4. However it may give you a burning sensation when you apply it on your skin.

In medical offices, up to 80% Glycolic acid have been used for peel but for the general use, I will suggest around 5% in cream and lotion and 10% in do it yourself peels. But for peels be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions conscientiously! Too long of an exposure may give you temporary redness.

Is my opinion that Glycolic acid is a good and beneficial ingredient in skin care, and I would recommend it as a good treatment for Acne, wrinkle and aging skin! Different brands may have different concentrations.

Michel A. Hegi, PhD.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientist

Why Use Moisturizer?

The water content of the skin varies, but for the epidermis it is approximately 80%, the same water content as in other cells.  The very surface of the skin, the stratum corneum, is made up of dead skin cells and this layer is much drier, with the water content varying between 10-30%.

The stratum corneum, when it is dry, will tend to lose its luster and produce what we know as dry skin.  In normal circumstances, there will be movement of water from the dermis up through the more superficial layers of the skin, the water will then evaporate.  Skin that has low water content will dry and fissure (crack).

Moisturizers are designed simply to reduce water loss from the epidermis.  These products do not reverse sun damage, but they do prevent further dryness.   There is a temporary feeling of smoothness when moisturizers are used. The skin may swell slightly and cause some loss of fine wrinkles.  The pores may appear to be smaller because of this swelling.

Moisturizing for those with oily skin should consist of a sunscreen and and oil-free product that stays away from petrolatum.  Not every skin will be dry because of the occlusive layer that waterproofs the skin.  Sebum that is secreted from the oil glands will also have a moisturizing effect on the skin.  Moisturizers are essentially a combination of occlusive barriers and humectants that moisturize and soften.

Skin Moisturizers for Different Skin Types–

• Oily Skin: The moisturizers for people with oily skin should be non-comedogenic or oil-free.  Stay away from petrolatum and mineral oil!

• Dry Skin: Dry skin is more commonly seen in lighter skinned people.   Moisturizing should be applied to the skin after cleansing.  Small amounts of moisturizer should be applied, and it is best to have multiple applications rather than using an excessive amount at one time.  For aging skin an anti-wrinkle cream at night and a moisturizer with sunscreen for the day is a good regimen.  A small percentage of people do actually have dry skin on their face in the cheeks and on the jaw line.  If a person is scaly in the center of the face on the central forehead, around the nose, and on the central chin, this condition may be seborrheic dermatitis.  The use of a heavy moisturizer in people who have seborrheic dermatitis could lead to acne, so be sure to use a non-comedogenic moisturizer.  Again, stay away from products with petrolatum and mineral oil!

• Combination Skin: Most people have oily skin on the forehead, nose, and chin (called the T-zone), and dryer skin on the cheeks and neck.  The recommended moisturizer will be a non-comedogenic moisturizer which contains a minimum SPF of 15 in it for daily use.  Sunscreens will help the prevention of skin cancer and photoaging.

• Moisturizers for Hands: Moisturizers that are best used for the hands contain silicone, lanolin and cocoa butter.  Silicone is a water repellent which also prevents the normal fats of the surface of the skin from being washed away.  These products protect the skin even after washing the hands.

• Moisturizers for Body Skin: Because there are very few sebaceous (oil) glands on the arms and legs, moisturizers are very important. Winter, dry climates, and windy climates are very hard on the skin of the body. Many body lotions incorporate sunscreens for a daily routine. This is very important for sun exposed skin, and again for the prevention of skin cancer and photoaging.

Dr. Michel A. Hegi, Ph.D.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientist

All About Aging

A scientific breakdown…

Your skin is a unique, continuous external covering that protects us from toxic environmental elements and disease.  The skin is also part of the natural resistance of the body against invasion by microorganisms.  Yet, despite its well-known barrier properties, skin itself must be protected.

Desquamation (the normal shedding of the skin), normal flora, the fatty acids of sebum, and the lactic acid of sweat are all natural defense mechanisms against microorganism invasion.  The Langerhans cells present in the epidermis have an antigen-presenting capacity and might play an important role in delayed hypersensitivity reactions.  They also play a role in immuno-surveillance against viral infections.

Langerhans cells interact with neighboring keratinocytes which secrete a number of cytokines and epidermotropic T-cells to form the skin’s immune system.  The skin is also a huge sensory receptor for heat, cold, pain and touch.  Parts of the skin are considered erogenous zones.

The skin has great psychological importance at all ages.  It is an organ of emotional expression and a site for the discharge of anxiety.  Caressing and touching aids in the emotional development, learning and the growth of newborn infants.  The skin is a vital part of the body’s temperature regulation system, protecting us against both hypothermia and hyperthermia, both of which can be fatal.

Like all the body’s organs, the skin undergoes many changes during the normal aging process. Chronological aging, genetically programmed processes, takes place during normal life cycles.

Extrinsic Aging
The skin can age prematurely as a result of prolonged exposure to outside aggressors such as UV radiation, environmental pollutants and heavy metals.  Chronological aging primarily occurs in the dermis, the supportive element of the skin.  Modifications take place in the extracellular matrix altering the dermis structure, and the skin loses rigidity, elasticity and resilience.  Such alterations to the extra cellular matrix eventually result in rough, leathery, wrinkled, yellowed and uneven pigmentation.  Over time, facial skin becomes progressively lax, sagging along the jawbone and under the eyes.  A network of dilated blood vessels may be visible on the cheeks and nose, imbuing the face with an unnatural ruddiness.

Various blemishes, and visible precancerous and cancerous lesions can also pose a serious threat to the skin.  The skin becomes more fragile and may bruise or tear easily and take longer to heal.  One or more benign lesions are present on the skin of virtually all individuals older than 65, and the incidence of skin cancer increases dramatically with age.

UV radiation has a bigger impact on skin aging than any other environmental factor. The sun is the chief culprit when it comes to extrinsic aging.  Humans love light, and the worship of the sun has been a fundamental tenet that many societies hold even today.  The properties of the sun that have inspired such reverence include its light (visible radiation) and its warmth (infrared radiation).  Additional portions of the solar spectrum that cannot be perceived directly by the senses (ultraviolet) are capable of evoking both physiologic and pathologic events in the skin.

The Earth’s rapid spin and molten nickel-iron core creates an extensive magnetic field, which, along with the atmosphere, shields us from nearly all of the harmful radiation coming from the sun and other stars.  Sunlight is the ultimate source of energy and is vitally important to life.  As already noted, the absorption of incident solar energy by components of the skin can cause a variety of pathological conditions.

Until the 20th century, the sun was the predominant source of human skin exposure to energy within the photobiologic action spectrum.  More recently, artificial devices capable of mimicking the emission of some or the entire solar spectrum have been introduced, compounding the opportunities and risks of ultraviolet radiation.  The most common sources of artificial UV exposure are various kinds of lamps that emit this form of energy.  These lamps are used primarily for recreational tanning and phototherapy of skin diseases (e.g., psoriasis and cutaneous T-cell lymphoma, mycosis fungoides).  UVR lamps can emit UVA, UVB, and/or UVC rays.  Those lamps currently used for recreational tanning emit UVA primarily or exclusively.  Some UVA lamps generate greater than five times the UVA per unit time than natural solar UVA radiation reaching the Earth’s surface at the Equator.

At these doses, “pure UVA” is likely to have adverse biologic effects.  However, UVB remains a potential problem with most of these sources.  Even 1% UVB emission from a UVA source can cause a significant increase in the potential for skin cancer.  The tanning industry is rapidly growing in the U.S. and Europe.  Currently, more than one million people use commercial tanning facilities every day.  The biggest categories of users are adolescents and young adults, especially women.

The use of artificial ultraviolet sources for the phototherapy of dermatological disease has increased substantially in recent years and has exposed a group of people to markedly increased doses of UVR.  Epidemiological studies of these patients have shown an unequivocal dose-dependent increase in the incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC), especially squamous cell carcinoma (SCC).

Another potential, but as yet unexplored, source of artificial UVR is unshielded fluorescent bulbs used for illumination.  An unresolved issue has been the amount of UVA emitted by such sources and the long-term effects of this exposure.  More research is needed to clarify these problems.

The skin plays an important role in calcium homeostasis by contributing to the body’s supply of vitamin D.  Vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol) is produced in the skin by the action of ultraviolet light on dehydrocholestrol which is then hydroxylated in the liver and kidneys (which needs parathyroid hormone to activate alpha-hydroxylase) to 1,25 dihydroxycholecalciferol, the active form of vitamin D.  This anti-rachitic vitamin acts on the intestine increasing calcium absorption through stimulation of synthesis of calcium-binding proteins in the mucosal cells of the intestine, as well as on the kidneys promoting calcium absorption.

A Lifetime of Damage
Despite the undeniable importance of cutaneous exposure to ultraviolet radiation for vitamin D homeostasis, there is little evidence to indicate that there are additional beneficial effects of such exposure.  Indeed, overwhelming evidence exists to support the concept that the skin is damaged in many different ways by its direct exposure to natural or artificial ultraviolet radiation.  Some exposure is virtually unavoidable over a lifetime and is dramatically dissimilar in different populations depending upon climate, geography, occupation and recreational activities.  The consequences of this exposure are also influenced by factors such as the degree of melanin pigmentation.

The effects of UV radiation can be divided into two general types, acute and chronic.  Acute effects include sunburn.  Chronic effects include, among others, the development of certain forms of skin cancer.  In addition, the skin is a major site of immunologic activity, and UV radiation is capable of affecting the immune system via its effects on the skin.  The skin is also susceptible to degenerative changes evoked by chronic UV radiation.  These changes are a major component of the constellation of physical changes perceived as skin aging but which in reality, are due to chronic photo damage.

It is now possible to measure the effects of solar radiation on the skin.  Epidemiological studies from around the world have provided important new knowledge concerning the risks and benefits of exposure to sunlight and ultraviolet radiation.  Considerable controversy remains concerning the specific adverse effects caused by various wavelengths of UV radiation, the magnitude of the adverse effects and potential strategies for their prevention and treatment.
With all the rhetoric, avoiding the sun altogether is not possible.  Scientists have been studying the effects of the sun’s rays for decades. Expanding knowledge about the hazards of exposure to sunlight and ultraviolet radiation has been accompanied by improved approaches to photoprotection including the development of more effective skin care and sunscreen formulations.

The sun emits a wide variety of electromagnetic radiation, including infrared, visible, ultraviolet A (UVA at 320-420nm), ultraviolet B (UVB at 290-320nm) and ultraviolet C (UVC at 10-290nm).  The only ultraviolet radiation (UVR) wavelength that reaches the earth’s surface is UVA and UVB.  UVA radiation is 1000-fold less effective than UVB in producing skin redness.  However, its predominance in the solar energy reaching the Earth’s surface (tenfold to one hundredfold more than UVB) permits UVA to play a far more important role in contributing to the harmful effects of sun exposure than previously suspected.

There is greater UV exposure with decreasing latitude.  Residing at higher altitude also results in a greater UV exposure such that for every 1000 feet above sea level there is a compounded 4% increase in UV exposure.  UV exposure increases with decreased stratospheric ozone.  Other factors that influence exposure to UV include heat, wind, humidity, pollutants, cloud cover, snow, season and time of day.  Solar flares (sunspots) also alter the amount of UV reaching the earth. S olar flares increase ozone concentration in the stratosphere (above 50 km), thereby reducing the amount of surface UVB.  The cycle of solar flares causes as much as a 400% variation in UVB at 300 nm reaching the earth.  When solar flares are inactive, there is a decrease in the ozone concentration, allowing increased UVB to penetrate to the Earth’s surface.  Therefore, the right UV protection is critical when it comes to maintaining healthy-looking skin.

There has been also a serious concern about depletion of stratosphere ozone by man-made chlorofluorocarbon (CFC).  The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has been charged with estimating the effects on health associated with changes in stratospheric ozone levels.  In a recent risk assessment document, EPA predicted that without controls on CFC production, there would be a 40% depletion of ozone by 2075.  The EPA further concluded that for every 1% decrease in ozone, there is a compounded 2% increase in the more damaging shorter UVB wavelengths reaching the earth’s surface.  Such an increase in UVB penetration to the earth is predicted to result in an additional 1-3% increase a year in non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC).

Recent satellite measurements already indicate a worldwide decrease in stratospheric ozone during the past decade. Both satellite and land-based measurements have revealed a seasonal hole in the ozone layer over the Antarctic secondary to its destruction by CFCs.  Although increased surface UVB has been measured in the Antarctic, there has not yet been a measurable change in UVB as a consequence of CFCs in the stratosphere.  During the past several decades, the average American’s exposure to UVB has increased considerably due to changing lifestyles-more outdoor recreational activities, more emphasis on tanning, scantier clothing and a population shift to the southwestern U.S.

UV Effects on Skin
Marked morphologic changes in all parts of the skin, except perhaps the subcutaneous tissue, are recognized as consequences of exposure to UV radiation.  These changes underlie the clinically observed sagging, wrinkling, leathery texture, and blotchy discoloration of skin typically associated with actinic damage.  It is unclear how much exposure is required to make these changes, although it is evident that clinically normal appearing skin can show pathologic signs of sun damage upon histological and ultra structural examination.  It is known that individuals with fair complexions are more susceptible to this damage.

In the epidermis, UV-induced changes include aberrant tissue architecture and alterations in keratinocytes and melanocytes and functional changes in Langerhans cells.  Sun-exposed epidermis becomes thickened as much as twofold compared to sun-protected skin and is disorganized, showing evidence of hyperkeratosis, parakeratosis, and acanthosis.

Keratinocytes lose their typical alignment and progressive flattening, show inclusions in the nucleus and accumulate excessive amounts of melanosome complexes above the nucleus (capping).  At the ultra structural level, clumped keratin filaments and alterations in electron density of some basal cells are characteristic.  Keratinocytes of the more differentiated epidermal layers (upper spinous, granular and cornified) show few, if any, cytologic changes.

Despite evidence of morphologic change, there is no data indicating that altered keratinocyte differentiation is a result of sun exposure.  Further, it is not known how UVR interactions with light-absorbing molecules within the keratinocytes (e.g., DNA, keratins and lipids) correlate with the changes in morphology.

The melanocyte, with its melanin pigment-containing melanosomes, is the primary cell involved in photoprotection of the skin.  In a sun-damaged epidermis, these cells enlarge, increase in number and migrate to higher levels of the epidermis.  The other cells affect the Langerhans cells in both animal and human skin by altering their immunological functions.  Even low doses of UVB can reduce their antigen-presenting capability, block the normal pathway and evoke an abnormal response by activating T- suppressor networks.  It is unclear whether UVR affects Langerhans cells both directly and indirectly through soluble factors released by damaged keratinocytes.

The dermal-epidermal junction loses its rete ridges and forms a flattened interface between the epidermis and dermis.  This abutment is more susceptible to shearing forces than normal interlocked system of epidermal rete ridges and dermal papillae.  At the ultra structural level, regions of reduplicated lamina densa are evident.  This change is not unique to photo damage but is characteristic of trauma to the epidermis by wounding and/or by disease.  UVR also causes unique dermal damage such as alterations in architecture, matrix composition, vascular structure and function and cellular activities.

The connective tissue immediately beneath the epidermis (Grenz zone) contains large bundles of densely packed, normal-appearing collagen fibrils.  Beneath this region, a broad zone of electron-dense elastotic material is evident.  There is no data that demonstrates how newly synthesized or degraded previously existing elastic fibers contribute to this material.  Abnormal collagen fibrils can be admixed with the elastotic substance.  Other studies show changes in the type 111:1 collagen ratio and an increase in glycosaminoglycans.  Fibroblasts appear to be metabolically active.  It is not clear whether this is a transient response to the UVR or whether there is a change in cell phenotype that can be retained in vitro.

The mechanisms for the altered connective tissue responses are not understood. Dermal vessels become dilated, leaky and accumulate excessive basement membrane-like material. Inflammatory cells collect around the vessels; mast cells are increased and may show evidences of degranulation and apparent physical association with fibroblasts. Although the nature of this relationship is unknown, it is a common observation in other disorders in which fibrosis occurs.

What Causes Sunburn?
Sunburn is UVR-induced erythema of the skin caused by vasodilatation of dermal vessels.  This may be mediated through cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase products of arachidonic acid.  Generation of the prostaglandins associated with UVB erythema produced within the first 6-12 hours can be blocked by topical non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as indomethacin.  These anti-inflammatory agents, however, cannot inhibit the delayed, post 24-hour erythema that is modulated by lipoxygenase products.  The time-dependent release of varying mediators during the UV-induced inflammatory process underscores the need for further exploration into selective inhibitors of both the cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase pathways in the prevention and treatment of sunburn erythema.

Tanning refers to the increase in melanin pigmentation following UVR exposure.  It is mediated by a combination of immediate pigment darkening (IPD) and delayed pigment darkening (DPD).  IPD is caused by UVA and is due to photo-oxidation of preformed melanin.  It is not protective against UVB erythema.  DPD occurs about 72 hours after UVR exposure and does not offer much protection against UVB erythema and pyrimidine dimer formation.  It is accompanied by an increase in the number of DOPA-positive melanocytes, an increase in the number and melanization of melanosomes and an increase in dendricity of melanocytes.

The degree of protection afforded by melanin is not clear.  Individuals with dark complexions are still susceptible to UVR-induced photo damage.  UVR also increases the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes.  Following UVR, melanosomes that are diffused within keratinocytes cluster above the nucleus, forming a cap.  DPD occurs with either UVB or UVA. DPD induced by UVB is more protective against UVB erythema than is DPD induced by UVA.  Both UVB- and UVA-induced DPD protect equally well against UVB dimer formation.

In addition to certain genetic and metabolic disorders that are precipitated by UVR, there are many photosensitive diseases of unknown cause.  These include lupus erythematosus and polymorphous light eruption, which are elicited by certain wavelengths of the UVR spectrum.  Photosensitivity disorders may also occur due to the interaction of UVR with many commonly used drugs including those used in cosmetics and consumer products.

There is extensive epidemiological evidence supporting the direct role sunlight plays in human skin cancer.  Basal cell carcinomas (BCC), the most common skin cancers in Caucasians, are found primarily on sun-exposed areas such as the head and neck where a dose-response relationship exists. F urthermore, cancer-damaged skin generally has decreased melanin pigmentation and associated photoprotection.  People with light complexions and who sunburn easily have a higher incidence of tumors.  There is even stronger evidence for the role of sunlight in causing squamous cell carcinoma (SCCs).

Although both BCCs and SCCs are more prevalent in geographic areas of high sun exposure, there is a much greater increase in SCC with decreasing latitude and increasing sun exposure.  A reasonable correlation exists between sunlight exposure and melanomas, but the relationship is not as clear as with non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC).  It should be emphasized that the incidence of NMSC and melanomas has been steadily increasing.  Unlike NMSC, melanomas occur most frequently on the upper back in males and lower extremities in females.  Melanoma incidence does not follow a pattern of increased risk with cumulative UVR exposure whereas the incidence of NMSC does.

The exposure of skin to UVB is essential for the endogenous production of vitamin D.  In areas of the world where there are inadequate levels of nutritionally available vitamin D, UVB is the only source.  The relationship of sunshine to vitamin D and the normal growth and development of the skeleton is well known.  Exposure of skin to UVR in the region of 290 to 315 nm is essential for the formation of vitamin D in the epidermis.  There is evidence that vitamin D synthesis is inhibited by the use of sunscreens.  However, vitamin D supplementation in pill form can overcome this deficiency.

Significant factors that influence susceptibility to UVR damage include race, ethnicity, eye and hair color, and the tendency toward formation of freckles and birthmarks.  One approach to categorizing humans in terms of susceptibility to UVR is distinguishing them according to their histories of sunburning and tanning.  Two skin types have been defined: Type I individuals always burn and never tan and type II individuals always tan and never burn.  The age of an individual may be correlated with factors that influence the susceptibility to UVR.  These may include age-related structural differences in the skin, behavioral differences (e.g., adolescent risk-taking) and, hypothetically, age-related immunological differences.

Numerous systemic medications may also augment UVR susceptibility. Increased UVR damage may occur with the use of oral antibiotics, anti-hypertensives, psoralens, immunosuppressive agents, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs and numerous other medications.  In addition, a number of topical medications and industrial chemicals may increase the susceptibility to damage by sunlight.  These include topical psoralens, tretinoin and other photosensitizing and depigmenting agents.

The Impact of Aging
As a result of prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation emanating from the sun or artificial sources, the skin ages prematurely.  Both UVA and UVB rays cause damage leading to wrinkles, lower immunity against infection, aging skin disorders, and cancer.  Even small amounts of UV radiation damage collagen fibers (the major structural protein in the skin) and cause accumulation of abnormal elastin (the protein that causes tissue to stretch), during the process, large amounts of enzymes called metalloproteinase are produced.

The normal function of these enzymes is to remodel the sun-injured tissue by synthesizing and reforming collagen.  This is an imperfect process, however, and to achieve it, some of these enzymes actually degrade collagen.  The result is an uneven formation (matrix) of disorganized collagen fibers called solar scars.  Wrinkles will form if this process of imperfect skin rebuilding occurs again and again.  One study indicated when people with light to moderate skin color are exposed to sunlight for just 5-15 minutes, metalloproteinases remain elevated for about a week.  It should be noted, however, that some studies indicate that metalloproteinases may also have factors that protect against melanoma.

Despite the damage caused by UVR, good skin care habits can help and sunscreen products are the first line of defense.  The use of sunscreens, especially on the face is critical.  Consumers 30 and older should use a moisturizing sunscreen product.  To increase awareness of the damaging potential of UV radiation, the EPA and the National Weather Service developed the UV Index.  Besides skin cancer, UV radiation also increases the risk of cataracts and certain other eye problems and can suppress the immune system.  The UV Index number, ranging from 0 to 10+, indicates the amount of UV radiation reaching the earth’s surface at noon for an hour.  The UV Index is valid only for about a 30-mile radius from the city, and, as with any forecast, local variability in cloud cover and other factors may affect actual levels, but it serves as a reminder to take precautions against UV exposure.

UVR Effects on Hair
Scalp hair is a major social and visual display feature of the human body.  Hair that is short or long, curly or straight, shimmering with health and vitality complements personal appearance.  Hair is similar to the epidermis and is made up of dead cells pushed upward by new living cells in the hair follicle.  Like the skin’s surface, the cells that make up a strand of hair contain keratin.  Sebaceous glands attached to the hair follicles produce and secrete the oily substance sebum, which lubricates and smoothes the hair strands as they move toward the surface.  Between 100,000 and 200,000 hair follicles produce hair on the scalp.

The most important feature of hair follicles is that their activity is intermittent (cyclical).  As the hair reaches a certain length, it is shed and replaced with a new hair.  The main part of each hair fiber is the cortex, which is composed of keratinized spindle-shaped cells.  Terminal hairs have a central core known as the medulla consisting of specialized cells, which contain air spaces.  Covering the cortex is the cuticle, a thin layer of cells overlapping like the tiles on a roof, with the free margins of the cells pointing toward the tip of the hair.  The color of hair is governed by melanin.  Less melanin is produced as we grow older, causing gray hair.  The average rate of growth of human scalp hair is 0.37mm a day.

A woman’s scalp hair grows faster than a man’s, but a woman’s body hair grows more slowly.  Hair growth is undoubtedly increased by androgens, since it can be reduced by treatment with anti-androgenic steroids.  The texture of hair is determined by the diameter of each hair strand.  A strand of coarse hair is relatively large in diameter, while a strand of fine hair is relatively small in diameter.  To help reduce hair damage, heat and sun should be avoided.  UVR, blow dryers and styling appliances damage hair by drying it out and making it brittle.

Skin isn’t the only part of our body that needs protection from UVR.  Hair is also subject to UVR exposure and photo damage to hair takes the form of texture changes, excessive drying, loss of elastic strength and photo fading of (natural or artificial) color.  The inclusions of “photo filters” in shampoos and conditioners have been shown to significantly decrease photo damage.

Photo filters come in a variety of forms and are included in different products.  Non-substantive UV absorbers including salicylic acid derivatives, octylmethoxycinnamate and benzophenone derivatives, make up the majority of photo filters in hair products.  Relying on a Fluorolog instrument, Janusz Jachowitz demonstrated the effectiveness of a substantive UV photo filter commercially known as Escalol HP610.

UVR exposure causes wrinkles and premature aging of the skin. Recent studies have also shown the effect that UVR has on hair including texture changes, excessive drying, loss of elastic strength and photo fading of natural or artificial color.  In this respect, the cosmetic industry should bear the major responsibility of educating the public while selling its cosmetic products.  The trend in the cosmetic industry has been to develop more skin care and sun care products with increasingly higher sun protection factors (SPF).  The next generations of products that include either physical sun blockers or chemical sunscreens should be elegant, long-lasting and result-oriented in addition to skin-friendly and environmentally-safe.

Michel A. Hegi, PhD.
NUTRIVAGE, Chief Scientist